Just not looking too good. So in comes the yellow ochre.
Still a little blotchy, but better. I also did touch up the spots I obviously missed on his elbow etc. I didn't see it until I looked at the picture. Then the flesh.
Much better. This is the pot of citadel paint I bought last year $3.75 for 12ml. I believe the price I saw for 59ml of Delta Ceramcoat at Jo Anne's was $1.29 so...
I also bodged together a spear front end using Paul's method here. This is actually my second attempt at this method. I still need to refine my technique, but I'm happy with it.
I'm still finding chipped paint here and there from the Christmas transport debacle, but that's the last of the weapons that needed fixing.
I'm now fighting the urge to prime everything in yellow ochre, sort of a why don't they make the plane out of the black box syndrome I think.
And I got off my ass and found many sites that have the lyrics to Bean Phaidin (Wife of Paidin). The best is this youtube link with a live performance. The lyrics are underneath the like button. A little hard to read because the gaelic and english run together. Oh well.
I've been using "craft" acrylic ranges like Delta Ceramcoat for years now and the coverage is very unpredictable. Some shades are just fine, but others (especially reds and yellows) are almost transparent :-( .
ReplyDeleteSince then I've bought a few "model" paints (Vallejo, in this case) and the difference is quite marked. Definitely worth considering; even though they're more expensive, they last much longer due to the smaller amounts needed (the dropper bottles help here!)
Thanks Colgar,
DeleteI think that the brighter colors tend to have coverage issues, especially over dark priming. It may just be that black primer isn't for me. I think it is looking fine on orcs but not really what I want for the Saxons and Vikings. I may yet splurge on some vallejo at Hobby Lobby. I'm now obsessed with getting some better brushes.
I'm also staring to seriously emulate what I'm calling the Tamsin method. She gets a very nice result and works fast. The primer is followed by a base color block to lay a foundation for the color you want. I think that in the past the only thing I did was paint things I wanted gold, brown first. I also used to paint areas where I wanted bright colors a coat of white.
Never used some of them paints before. Why not undercoat them with the ochre paint. I've done that before, on my NYW brits, using a srpay red undercoat, that's most of the figures done just with the undercoat.
ReplyDeleteThat's what I'm thinking. It's just trying to think of what the main color will be. For Confederates or Germans, some kind of gray. Union or Prussians some kind of blue. I'll have to think more on it. I'm trying to re-establish a style.
DeleteThat's useful. All of my plastics have blotchy skin colour :)
ReplyDeleteGlad to be of service. That's why I blog, to find and share information.
DeleteThis definitely works better and I like that Citadel colour. I've not painted plastics yet, but I will have to learn to as I've got some on order. One of the things I'll need to learn is how to safely strip paint from them. It's not unusual for me to strip the paint off a mini 2 to 3 times before I get it the way I want it.
ReplyDeleteI've never stripped paint before because all of my figures are of course perfectly painted (yeah right!) I have a couple of old ones I was thinking of experimenting on.
DeleteWith the old GW hard plastics I always treated them the same as metals for painting etc and I don't think there were any problems with that approach. With the softer 1/72 plastics tend to bend and flex, chipping the paint. They also seem to have a little bit of a problem getting the paint to stick. That is why I mix glue with the primer coat.