Crosman 1077 - Putting it back together.

 Hi All,

So I attempted to replace the end seal and reassemble my 1994 Crosman 1077 pellet rifle.

So here is the the Plug Assembly (1077-036) broken down into its component parts.

Showing the dirt and wear on the Piercing Pin (38A027) and the cracks in the bottom of the End Seal (38-128)

Brand new End Seal for comparison,

I then cleaned all the parts with Q-tips and 91% isopropanol. I'm sure 70% would have been fine.

Plug Assembly reassembled. Piercing Plug, Screen, Piercing Pin, End Seal, and Guide Collar.

Plug Assembly goes back in the Tube (100-017).

You want to line up the pin side with the hole,

and the tube side with the notch.

Theoretically you still have the pin in your vice grips.

You just reverse the process and push while twisting.

The Tube (1077-017), Spacer (1077-039), and Barrel Housing (1077-010) are all held in place by the Barrel Band (1077-008).

Here they are assembled. Just tight the Band Screw (1077-026).

Next fit the end of the Transfer Tube (1077-016) into the Plug Tssembly (1077-036) via the tube Bushing (1077-029).

Next, find the part you didn't know existed until you saw it fall out of the Receiver when trying to put things together. That would be the Hammer Roller Pin (106-024) under the metal arm of the Trigger Assembly (1077-033).

This next step is very important. Drop the Valve and Tube Assembly (1077-034) and Trigger Assembly (1077-033) on the floor, thus learning how to disassemble a portion of the Valve Assembly into its component parts. Realize you only have Detent (106A011, which is then called 106B011 in the list) and Detent Body (106A010) but not the Detent Spring (106A046) because of course you didn't see where that went when it hit the floor. Grab a beer.

Don't give up and eventually find said Detent Spring.

Reassemble the Valve and Tube Assembly. Now we're cooking.

Get the Receiver together with all the assemblies put back together correctly, for the third time after having springs be springy.

Insert a cylinder without the stock on to see if it leaks. It seemed to hold.

Put the stock on with the three screws, remember that the one furthest from the trigger is a bigger diameter than the other two, but by now you've pulled this thing apart so many times that's not difficult.

Find a target online or go old school and draw an X on a piece of paper. (Sorry for the gratuitous broken toe shot.)

I then went outside to try and sight it in at about 10 paces.

I got off one shot, then realized I left the Allen wrench for adjusting the site inside. I came back out, lined up my second shot, finger on the trigger and...

PFFFFT-WHOOSH!

Somehow it started leaking again. I tried some in situ adjustments of the guide collar and then had a hard time getting the cylinder to pierce. Finally I figured that maybe I just need a new piercing pin. It is, however, possible that the gun is leaking at the plug assembly and tube junction.

So I'm waiting on the new part. In the meantime the replacement 1077 arrived and my brother and I spent about an hour shooting cans and targets. It was great fun.

So the jury remains out on whether I can resuscitate this gun. I'm at the point where I don't want to spend anymore to fix it because I'm halfway to the purchase of a brand new one. I'm also running out of time. So we'll see if I have anything further to report.

Happy hobbying.

Field stripping a Crosman 1077 pellet rifle

 Hi All,

Things have been busy and hectic, so hobby has taken a little bit of a back seat of late. But nerdery knows no bounds, so I started trying to figure out why my old Crosman 1077  (you can also get it from Amazon, here) wouldn't hold a CO2 charge.

While not really into gun culture, I am an American male of a certain age and I enjoy plinking beer cans and shooting the occasional varmint.

After wasting several 12 gram cylinders I decided to try and find out if it was possible to to fix this rifle that I think I bought in 1993.

So I found the manual and the parts list and watched a few videos.

I tried the Pellgunoil hack. It didn't work. Before I could try using teflon tape my brother saw the crack in the end seal. (Part #  38-128)

So a quick search revealed that EBay was my best bet for parts if I didn't want to wait a month. I got the parts from here.

The last thing I needed was a half inch wide standard screwdriver to open up the Guide Collar (Part # 338-041) from the Piercing Plug (Part # 1077A018). I ordered that from Amazon here. In one video a guy just ground the point off of a 1/2" spade bit. But I'd rather just have the tool.

Here's the pictures.

The stock easily comes off with the three phillips (circled in red) head screwdriver. Note that the one towards the front is larger. 2mm hex screw (circled in yellow) that holds the CO2 tube to the barrel. The four screws that hold the body (reciever?) are 3 phillips (Green) and one Standard (Blue), although I had to use a standard head driver to get the last green one out. Top tip, take the scope rail off first. It holds the two halves of the gun together if you don't.

If you push the trigger down sideways you're not supposed to have the trigger spring pop out. I failed (Green Circle). The  Tube Pin (Part # 1077-031 circled red) holds the Piercing Plug in place. Just lock some vice grips on it and twist and pull.

And now you have the plug out and can really see the crack in the End Seal. The slot in the Guide Collar is about 2mm and of course my 1/2" screwdriver blade is about 2.3mm thick, so I ended up having to grind it down anyway.

And it's off. Now I just have to wait 5-7 days for my End Seals to come in.

I'll try to take better pictures of how it all goes together when I button it back up.

Happy Hobbying.