Hi All,
One of the side effects of the covid-19 stay at home guidelines is that we've been playing a lot more games as a family.
It is also coinciding with a class my son is finishing at school called Game On!
He is assigned to play a few games each week and then write a review of sorts about them. This week is strategy week.
Here are a few of the games we've played over the last few weeks.
I played it once back in the day but never owned a copy until the re-release a few years ago. I never thought my wife and daughter would play, but I sold them on it as they would be able to gang up on me after I beat them at Risk earlier in the month. They beat me in about 6 turns. I think I yelled "Wolverines!" at least once.
I've only played this a couple of times before and never played the original. It's pretty fun. I think my son enjoyed this one because he legit beat me as the Union.
I've probably had this game since 1984 and I'm hard pressed to remember if I actually ever played this game with anybody before. I played it by myself quite a bit. My son especially likes the plastic coins.
Anybody else breaking out some classics?
Thanks for looking.
Wednesday, April 22, 2020
Monday, April 20, 2020
Dangerous Dungeon Delvers
Hi All,
Just a little glamour shot of a few figures I had handy and some of the dungeon tiles I printed.
I've been alternately using the airbrush or brush for priming and like them better primed black.
Many of these were varnished and used for the photo. I've been using the airbrush to varnish them. Again to learn how to use the airbrush.
Just a little shot of the production line. Current process. Base coat black. Drybrush Charcoal, Hippo Grey, Rainy Grey. Spot drybrush Burnt Sienna and Territorial Beige. Sponge on Forest Green then Slate Green. Done. All of the paints are Delta Ceramcoat except for The Black and Slate Green, which are Americana (Or Vallejo Black Primer).
Thanks for looking.
Just a little glamour shot of a few figures I had handy and some of the dungeon tiles I printed.
I've been alternately using the airbrush or brush for priming and like them better primed black.
Many of these were varnished and used for the photo. I've been using the airbrush to varnish them. Again to learn how to use the airbrush.
Just a little shot of the production line. Current process. Base coat black. Drybrush Charcoal, Hippo Grey, Rainy Grey. Spot drybrush Burnt Sienna and Territorial Beige. Sponge on Forest Green then Slate Green. Done. All of the paints are Delta Ceramcoat except for The Black and Slate Green, which are Americana (Or Vallejo Black Primer).
Thanks for looking.
Thursday, April 9, 2020
Hobby Update: Social Distancing Style
Hi All,
I realized that it's been awhile so I thought I'd jump in and give you an update of sorts. It's been a whirlwind of ups and downs as cabin fever sets in and things seem to be not working at times.
First, here's the progress on my Worldographer map.
I know, you're probably asking yourself "isn't this the same exact map he showed last time?" Yes and no. I went for the full map being delineated by the smallest hex size I wanted to use. So each hex generated by the program is 6 miles across. All of the coastlines and rivers are done as polygons to get the shapes I wanted. You can see I've put in the border of Monfel in the upper Left area. It more or less follows the area of the hexes from the hand drawn map.
Once I get in more of the borders and settlement I can start tweaking the boundaries and terrain. For instance I need a lot more tributaries for those rivers.
I've been running into a weird issue where I seem to be overloading the program and it will tell me I'm out of memory. I can't save of export or anything. Closing and restarting seems to fix it, so I just try to save my work often.
3d Printing has been going apace. I had a lot of trouble transitioning to the glass bed. It turned out that I needed to lower my bed temperature from 50C to 40C and use glue stick to get prints that didn't come off in the middle of the print, not stick altogether or warp horribly as the layers cooled at different rates. I also adjust some parameters of when the cooling fan came on, but I think bed temp was more important. The main thing is, there is a ton of advice out there and you have to be willing to try different things to find what works for you. Just because other people say xyz works for them it may not work for you.
One of the things I did was print some upgrades for my Ender 3. I found all of them on thingiverse here.
The vent fan cover redirects the airflow so it is not going straight up at the bottom of the left side of the bed.
The filament guide seems to help with unspooling the filament so you are no longer pulling straight down.
I found this tool rack very helpful. As you can see, I'm sort of a slob. Now I can find all the tools when I need them. As long as I put them back in the organizer.
Lastly, I printed this filament guide. As you can see, I ran out of Black filament before printing it. Oh well. I printed it at 0.2mm, so that's why it may look a little rough. It's hard to see in the picture, but I did wear a groove in the plastic around where the filament goes into the feed. I din't see it until after I had switched to grey filament. Hopefully this guide will fix that so it doesn't continue to happen.
Hope this helps you if you're having trouble with your printing projects.
Thanks for looking and commenting.
I realized that it's been awhile so I thought I'd jump in and give you an update of sorts. It's been a whirlwind of ups and downs as cabin fever sets in and things seem to be not working at times.
First, here's the progress on my Worldographer map.
I know, you're probably asking yourself "isn't this the same exact map he showed last time?" Yes and no. I went for the full map being delineated by the smallest hex size I wanted to use. So each hex generated by the program is 6 miles across. All of the coastlines and rivers are done as polygons to get the shapes I wanted. You can see I've put in the border of Monfel in the upper Left area. It more or less follows the area of the hexes from the hand drawn map.
Once I get in more of the borders and settlement I can start tweaking the boundaries and terrain. For instance I need a lot more tributaries for those rivers.
I've been running into a weird issue where I seem to be overloading the program and it will tell me I'm out of memory. I can't save of export or anything. Closing and restarting seems to fix it, so I just try to save my work often.
3d Printing has been going apace. I had a lot of trouble transitioning to the glass bed. It turned out that I needed to lower my bed temperature from 50C to 40C and use glue stick to get prints that didn't come off in the middle of the print, not stick altogether or warp horribly as the layers cooled at different rates. I also adjust some parameters of when the cooling fan came on, but I think bed temp was more important. The main thing is, there is a ton of advice out there and you have to be willing to try different things to find what works for you. Just because other people say xyz works for them it may not work for you.
One of the things I did was print some upgrades for my Ender 3. I found all of them on thingiverse here.
The vent fan cover redirects the airflow so it is not going straight up at the bottom of the left side of the bed.
The filament guide seems to help with unspooling the filament so you are no longer pulling straight down.
I found this tool rack very helpful. As you can see, I'm sort of a slob. Now I can find all the tools when I need them. As long as I put them back in the organizer.
Lastly, I printed this filament guide. As you can see, I ran out of Black filament before printing it. Oh well. I printed it at 0.2mm, so that's why it may look a little rough. It's hard to see in the picture, but I did wear a groove in the plastic around where the filament goes into the feed. I din't see it until after I had switched to grey filament. Hopefully this guide will fix that so it doesn't continue to happen.
Hope this helps you if you're having trouble with your printing projects.
Thanks for looking and commenting.
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